点评:It's a straight shot on the #4 bus to Cite Frugés in the suburban district of Pessac, plus about 5 minute walk. Also the B Tram stops nearby, with more like 15-20 minute walk; and parking is easy (and free) if you're driving. I had made a reservation for the 2:00 (14:00) visit/tour. A small group gathered, and promptly at 2:00 a guide appeared. She provided information (in French) out on the sidewalk, then we went into the house that the city owns. From there, the guide recommended a route for self-tour through the rest of the small area which was developed to LeCorbusier's a bit-too-radical-for-1920's-Bordeaux modern designs.
It's an interesting little visit to a footnote of architectural history, but don't have high expectations. The cultural value of Cite Frugés, it appears, has only recently been recognized. Most of the buildings are deteriorated; one is basically a ruin. Even the house on the tour is largely unrestored: you see plain rooms of little character, and the piece de resistance, the roof deck, is not yet available for tours. The handful of restored buildings are somewhat obscured by landscaping (which is proper for Le Corbusier's intent, but not so great for a tour). We saw one current renovation; and the organization has a plan for restoration of the city-owned house by 2026. For such a small, suburban neighborhood, we encountered a surprising number of residents going about their daily business. They seemed pleased to see us; one sensed community spirit. So perhaps in the not-so-distant future, Cite Frugés will be more compelling and require less imaginative re-creation.
Afterwards, we walked to Pessac's town center (about 20 minutes), which like Cite Frugés, a pleasant and calm alternative to the historic areas of central Bordeaux. There is also a chateau (vineyard) within walking distance, but they had no openings the afternoon we went to Cite Frugés.
翻译:乘坐 4 路公交车可直达佩萨克郊区的 Cite Frugés,再步行约 5 分钟即可到达。B 线电车也在附近停靠,步行约 15-20 分钟即可到达;如果您开车,停车很方便(而且免费)。我预订了 2:00(14:00)的参观/游览。一小群人聚集在一起,2:00 准时出现了一位导游。她在人行道上提供信息(法语),然后我们进入了市政府拥有的房子。从那里,导游推荐了一条自助游路线,穿过其余的小区域,该区域按照勒柯布西耶的 1920 年代波尔多现代设计进行了开发,有点过于激进。
这是一次有趣的小访问,可以参观建筑史的脚注,但不要抱有太高的期望。看来,Cite Frugés 的文化价值最近才得到认可。大多数建筑都已破败不堪;其中一栋基本上已成废墟。即使是游览中的房子也基本未修复:你会看到一些没有什么特色的普通房间,而最精彩的部分——屋顶平台,目前还不能供游览。少数几座修复后的建筑被景观美化得有些模糊(这很符合勒·柯布西耶的意图,但不太适合游览)。我们看到了一座正在进行翻修的建筑;该组织计划在 2026 年前修复这栋市属房屋。对于这样一个小的郊区社区,我们遇到了数量惊人的居民,他们正在忙着做着日常事务。他们似乎很高兴见到我们;我们感受到了社区精神。所以也许在不久的将来,Cite Frugés 将更具吸引力,不需要太多的想象力来重建。
之后,我们步行到佩萨克镇中心(约 20 分钟),这里和 Cite Frugés 一样,是波尔多市中心历史区的宜人而平静的替代选择。步行距离内还有一座城堡(葡萄园),但是我们去 Cite Frugés 的那天下午他们没有空位。