点评:I have visited this area twice. The first time in 2002, so ten years before it was formally established as a park. On that occasion I proceeded by car from Cassis to the trailhead for the Calanque d'En-Vau, and from there on foot along this stunning calanque, to the coastline and back. The second time in January 2025, by sea, starting from Marseille, and skirting the cliff up to Cap Morgiou.
On both occasions I was fascinated by the beauty of the environment: overhanging cliffs, coves with emerald-colored water, vegetation expressing the difficulty of the Mediterranean environment but still contributing to a picture of beauty.
In particular, the visit from the sea reminded me of other memorable navigations carried out along the coast: such as the one (carried out several times) along the Amalfi Coast (Italy) and the one along the southern coast of Mount Athos (Greece).
Of course, the Calanques have their own peculiarity. Which seem to me to consist mainly in this: an almost empty coastal area (because extremely impervious) a very short distance from one of the most important Mediterranean cities; and substantially preserved as such until today, in the new form of the "National Park".
This strong personality of the Calanques was given new lustre by the discovery (1985) of the Cosquer Cave, which revealed the ways of human life in this region 30,000 years ago.
I also appreciated the mild climate enjoyed by the region. In January 2025, I sailed under the cliffs on a morning when the sea was so rough - due to the wind - that navigation towards the Frioul islands was suspended. Well, below the coast the sea was almost calm. And the same, as far as I understand, is true for the temperature, much milder in winter in the part of the Calanques facing the sea.
The beauty of the region is enhanced by the wise work of protection, before and after the establishment of the National Park in 2012. For example, already in 2002 in the Calanque d’En-Vau – and I imagine elsewhere too – special signs invited visitors to take their rubbish home, because the collection of waste in the case of the installation of bins (which in fact there were none) would have increased the costs of managing the area.
In conclusion, it's a wonderful area, wonderfully organized.
翻译:我曾两次造访此地。第一次是在 2002 年,也就是正式设立公园的十年前。那次,我驾车从卡西斯前往 Calanque d'En-Vau 的起点,然后从那里沿着这条迷人的 Calanque 步行到海岸线再返回。第二次是在 2025 年 1 月,乘船从马赛出发,沿着悬崖到达 Cap Morgiou。
两次我都被这里的美景所吸引:悬崖峭壁、碧绿海水的海湾、植被,这些都体现了地中海环境的艰难,但仍然构成了一幅美丽的画面。
特别是,从海上的这次造访让我想起了沿海岸进行的其他令人难忘的航行:例如沿阿马尔菲海岸(意大利)的航行(进行了多次)和沿阿索斯山(希腊)南部海岸的航行。
当然,Calanques 有自己的独特之处。在我看来,这主要体现在:一个几乎空无一人的沿海地区(因为极其不透水),距离地中海最重要的城市之一很近;并且以“国家公园”的新形式保存至今。
1985 年,科斯克洞穴的发现(揭示了 30,000 年前人类在该地区的生活方式),为卡朗格群岛的这种强烈个性赋予了新的光彩。
我也欣赏该地区温和的气候。2025 年 1 月,我在悬崖下航行,那天早上海浪很大——因为风——以至于前往弗里乌尔群岛的航行被暂停。好吧,在海岸下面,海面几乎平静。据我所知,温度也是如此,冬天卡朗格群岛面向大海的部分要温和得多。
在 2012 年建立国家公园之前和之后,明智的保护工作使该地区更加美丽。例如,早在 2002 年,Calanque d’En-Vau 就设立了特殊标志,邀请游客将垃圾带回家,因为在安装垃圾箱的情况下收集垃圾(实际上没有垃圾箱)会增加该地区的管理成本。
总之,这是一个美妙的地区,组织得非常好。