点评:Walking the ANZAC Walk in Gallipoli was a moving and profound way to discover the history and sacrifices of those who served in Gallipoli, during WWI. We visited in November 2024 however due to the 2024 bushfires, found the walk to be un-signposted and difficult to find information about, so we decided to share our experiences here!
Overall, our walk was 13.4km over 5hrs, allowing for extended periods of time visiting each of the memorials.
Having stayed in Çanakkale, and having our own hire car, we opted to take the ferry boat from Çanakkale to Kilitbahir. The boat left on the half hour, every hour, and took approximately 15 minutes to make the crossing (however it was recommended to arrive at least 15 minutes before departure time to allow for boarding). The total price for a small SUV with 4 adults was 650 Turkish Lira (435 to Kilitbahir and 215 for the return trip). Alternatively, you can drive from Çanakkale back around the Peninsula, or take the ferry boat from Cąnakkale to Eceabat. Hot tip - if you take the ferry boat, make sure you’re back in your car and ready to drive a few minutes before the boat docks, as it is a big push and shove to get off. The ferryboat also had toilets and cheap food and drink options on board. Once off the boat, turn left and follow the road to Anzac Cove (for approximately 40 minutes).
While the Australian Government’s audio guide was super informative (we used it along the way to narrate our journey) the signage in the area was not (partially consequence of the 2024 bushfires). Fortunately we bumped into a group of NZL defence force members who were able to guide us in the right direction. Note, our walk extended past the sites listed on the map on the above mentioned audio guide (can not link due to TripAdvisor rules).
1. We parked in the free openair carpark (Otopark)(Image 1 & 2) between Anzac Cove and the Anzac Cove cemetery, beginning our walk in a southerly direction (towards the cemetery).
2. Walking south along the road, headed for Artillery Road, we made stops at Shrapnel Valley Cemetery (Image 4 & 5) and The Beach Cemetery at Hell’s Spit (where Private John Simpson Kirkpatrick is buried)(Image 6 & 7) before turning to our left, up Artillery Road, a dirt but graded road signposted with three wooden signs, towards Lone Pine Cemetery (Image 8).
3. The walk to Lone Pine Cemetery was approximately 1.5kms uphill, with a stop at Shell Green Cemetery along the way (Image 9).
4. After spending some time exploring and reflecting at Lone Pine (Image 10), we walked to the sealed, one way loop road and continued past numerous cemeteries, trench sites (ANZAC and Turkish), and the Turkish memorial, headed for Chunuk Bair. Following the direction of vehicle travel (one way only), it’s difficult to get lost.
5. Once you arrive at Chunuk Bair Cemetery (Image 16) (take note: Chunuk Bair itself is before Chunuk Bair cemetery and has large memorials with writing in Turkish. Continue past these to reach Chunuk Bair Cemetery [where the New Zealand Cemetery / memorial is located]) and take some time to explore the memorials before turning back towards the way you came. Take the first right: a dirt road headed downhill, directly after the trenches (Image 17), signposted to The Farm Cemetery (Image 18) (if you have not yet reached the New Zealand memorial, the track will be on your left).
6. Continue past the sign to The Farm Cemetery (unless you want to make a detour), down the dirt track. As we visited after the 2024 bushfires, the landscape was mostly burnt out, providing an eery and somewhat more-so realistic look and feel to what the battlefields may have been like during WWI. The fires also uncovered some trenches that hadn’t been uncovered for approximately 30 years. Be cautious of the slippery mud and thick layers of ash underfoot.
7. As you continue west towards the sea you will reach a 5-way junction. Take the small, north-westerly track, taking care not to turn down the graded road to your right, as it will lead you away from your final destination. The track heads into the burnt remains of shrubbery, however you will know you’re on the right path as you will quickly come across small steps carved into the track. At the time of our visit, most of the wood that used to support these stairs had been burnt out and was not yet restored. We were also warned not to trust or put any weight through any of the handrails along the rest of the track due to their recent damage and unreliability secondary to the bushfires. The remainder of the track was easy to visualise, with some ascents before and while crossing the ridge-line (Image 22). Along the way you may spot some old pottery - remnants of old rum jars. Our NZL friends also informed us that during the bushfire, unexploded ordnance among the trenches had exploding, so ensure you stick to the track.
8. As you reach the final peak, take the path to the right to descend back down to the main costal road (turn left at the road), with your descent ending at New Zealand Outpost No. 2 (Image 24).
9. From here, continue south back past Anzac Cove to the carpark. We then also opted to drive the 11km loop track and to revisit some of the memorials before boarding the ferry back to Çanakkale.
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Other things to note:
Toilets: Toilet blocks were located at the Turkish Memorial and Chunuk Bair (BYO toilet paper). There was another toilet block in the carpark (Ottopark) at the roundabout at the start of the 11km loop road.
Food: We saw a small kiosk and some souvenir shops adjacent to the Turkish Monument. Make sure you take plenty of food and water with you!
Weather: During the 5 hours we were walking, we experienced all 4-seasons of weather, so pack accordingly, inclusive of a heavy duty rain jacket and solid walking shoes.
Accommodation: We stayed in Çanakkale for 2 nights, with the sole purpose having been to visit Gallipoli. While the hotel we stayed at, Hotel De Estrangers, was boutique and run by a lovely family, it had no sound proofing, meaning we struggled to sleep on the nights we were there, which happened to be a Friday and Saturday night. Çanakkale is a bustling little town, even in the off-seasons, with plenty of places to eat and drink, but consider this when choosing accommodation.
翻译:在加里波利参加 ANZAC 步行活动是一种感人而深刻的方式,可以了解第一次世界大战期间在加里波利服役的士兵的历史和牺牲。我们于 2024 年 11 月参观了该活动,但由于 2024 年的丛林大火,我们发现步行活动没有路标,很难找到相关信息,所以我们决定在这里分享我们的经历!
总的来说,我们的步行时间为 5 小时,共 13.4 公里,可以延长参观每个纪念碑的时间。
我们住在恰纳卡莱,有自己的租车,所以我们选择乘坐渡轮从恰纳卡莱前往基利特巴希尔。船每小时半小时一班,大约需要 15 分钟才能过河(但建议至少在出发时间前 15 分钟到达,以便登船)。一辆载有 4 名成人的小型 SUV 总价为 650 土耳其里拉(前往基利特巴希尔 435 里拉,回程 215 里拉)。或者,您可以从恰纳卡莱开车回到半岛,或者从恰纳卡莱乘渡轮前往埃杰阿巴特。温馨提示 - 如果您乘坐渡轮,请确保在船停靠前几分钟回到车里并准备好开车,因为下船时会推来推去。渡船上还有厕所和便宜的食物和饮料。下船后,左转,沿着道路前往安扎克湾(约 40 分钟)。
虽然澳大利亚政府的语音导游信息量很大(我们一路上都用它来讲述我们的旅程),但该地区的标志却不是(部分原因是 2024 年的丛林大火)。幸运的是,我们遇到了一群新西兰国防军成员,他们能够引导我们走向正确的方向。请注意,我们的步行范围超出了上述语音导游地图上列出的站点(由于 TripAdvisor 规则无法链接)。
1. 我们将车停在 Anzac Cove 和 Anzac Cove 公墓之间的免费露天停车场(Otopark)(图片 1 和 2),开始向南行走(朝着公墓的方向)。
2. 沿着道路向南行走,前往 Artillery Road,我们在 Shrapnel Valley Cemetery(图片 4 和 5)和 The Beach Cemetery at Hell’s Spit(二等兵 John Simpson Kirkpatrick 埋葬于此)停留(图片 6 和 7),然后左转,沿着 Artillery Road 行走,这是一条土路,但有坡度,上面有三块木牌,朝着 Lone Pine Cemetery(图片 8)行进。
3. 步行到 Lone Pine Cemetery 大约需要上坡 1.5 公里,途中在 Shell Green Cemetery 停留(图片 9)。
4. 在 Lone Pine(图 10)探索和思考了一段时间后,我们走到封闭的单向环路,继续经过众多墓地、战壕遗址(ANZAC 和土耳其)和土耳其纪念碑,前往 Chunuk Bair。沿着车辆行驶的方向(单向),很难迷路。
5. 到达 Chunuk Bair 公墓(图 16)后(请注意:Chunuk Bair 本身位于 Chunuk Bair 公墓之前,有大型纪念碑,上面写着土耳其语。继续经过这些纪念碑到达 Chunuk Bair 公墓 [新西兰公墓/纪念碑所在地]),花点时间探索纪念碑,然后再返回原路。第一个路口右转:一条下坡的土路,就在战壕后面(图片 17),路标指向农场公墓(图片 18)(如果您还没有到达新西兰纪念碑,这条路就在您的左边)。
6. 继续经过农场公墓的路标(除非您想绕道而行),沿着土路走下去。我们在 2024 年丛林大火之后参观,这里的景观大部分都被烧毁了,给人一种怪异而更真实的感觉,让人想起第一次世界大战期间的战场。大火还发现了一些大约 30 年来没有被发现的战壕。小心脚下湿滑的泥浆和厚厚的灰烬。
7. 继续向西朝大海走,你会到达一个五路交叉口。走西北方向的小路,注意不要拐下右边的坡道,因为它会带你远离最终目的地。这条小路通向灌木丛的烧焦残骸,但你会知道你走在正确的道路上,因为你很快就会看到刻在小路上的小台阶。在我们参观的时候,支撑这些楼梯的大部分木头都被烧毁了,还没有修复。我们还被警告不要相信或把任何重量压在小路其余部分的任何扶手上,因为它们最近因森林大火而受损,不可靠。小路的其余部分很容易想象,在穿越山脊线之前和穿越山脊线时有一些上升(图片 22)。沿途你可能会发现一些古老的陶器——旧朗姆酒罐的残留物。我们的新西兰朋友还告诉我们,在森林大火期间,战壕中未爆炸的弹药发生了爆炸,所以一定要沿着小路走。
8. 当你到达最后的山峰时,沿着右边的路下山回到沿海主干道(在路上左转),下山的路程在新西兰前哨站 2 号结束(图片 24)。
9. 从这里继续向南经过 Anzac Cove 到达停车场。然后,我们还选择驾车行驶 11 公里的环形赛道,并在乘坐渡轮返回恰纳卡莱之前重新参观一些纪念碑。
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其他注意事项:
厕所:厕所位于土耳其纪念碑和 Chunuk Bair(自带卫生纸)。在 11 公里环形路起点的环形交叉路口的停车场(Ottopark)还有另一个厕所。
食物:我们在土耳其纪念碑附近看到了一个小亭子和一些纪念品商店。一定要带上足够的食物和水!
天气:在我们步行的 5 个小时里,我们经历了四季的天气,所以请根据情况打包行李,包括一件厚重的雨衣和一双结实的步行鞋。
住宿:我们在恰纳卡莱住了 2 晚,唯一的目的是参观加利波利。我们住的酒店 Hotel De Estrangers 是一家精品酒店,由一个可爱的家庭经营,但没有隔音设施,这意味着我们在那里的晚上很难入睡,而我们在那里的晚上恰好是周五和周六晚上。恰纳卡莱是一个繁华的小镇,即使在淡季也是如此,有很多吃喝的地方,但在选择住宿时要考虑到这一点。