点评:the somewhat secluded side of Bellagio is the hamlet of San Giovanni. It is only 15 minutes walk from the centre of Bellagio (it can also be reached by boat) and yet many visitors do not know about it.
San Giovanni is just a small hamlet but it’s worth the effort.
It has a beautiful eighteenth-century church (dedicated to San Giovanni, in fact), has its own marina, tangled streets with characteristic houses, one leaning against the other, and restaurants and hotels.
But the beauty is that, as often happens, even the path to get there is a constant surprise in itself.
ON THE WAY TO SAN GIOVANNI
Of course, you can follow the main road which, from the boat dock in Bellagio, heads to the right.
But my suggestion is to walk through the gardens of Villa Melzi which are always a great sight! The entrance ticket (€8 per adult children under 12 free) will allow you to enter, visit its park, exit on the opposite side, reach the hamlet of San Giovanni and, on your return, go back in again and retrace the avenue. This way you will avoid a section of road that is not particularly pleasant.
Immediately outside the gardens you will find yourself in the hamlet of Loppia, another enchanting corner of Bellagio. And here you cannot fail to notice the imposing boat resting in the waters of its dock. It is the Rosina, built in 1903, the last example of a still functioning gondola on Lake Como, which now appears in public only for special occasions, such as the Sagra di San Giovanni on the Comacina Island. Until 2016, this beautiful boat was used to seeing her paired with “the Giulia”, her “almost twin” about twenty years younger than her, now retired at the Museo della Barca Lariana in Pianello.
It looks like it came out of an old photo or one of the many paintings from the beginning of the last century and brings your mind back to times when the lake was a bustle of boats loaded with goods, people and animals.
Speaking of things a little more practical, however, they say that in Loppia you eat very well at the (Michelin) Alle Darsene di Loppia e Da Silvio restaurant located at the top of the staircase next to the Church of Santa Maria.
And speaking of the church, dating back to the eleventh century, being built on private property, it cannot be visited, but it is still a pleasure to view it perched there on the top of the hill, with its beautiful bell tower that rises towards the sky.
The final stretch to reach San Giovanni di Bellagio unfortunately requires a piece along the road, of about a hundred metres, then go down to the right and immediately after the public gardens you finally begin to discover the village.
THE VILLAGE OF SAN GIOVANNI DI BELLAGIO
As in all the most historic parts of the villages, the best thing is to wander through the alleys, admire ancient doors, windows decorated with flower pots and colored facades.
You will find yourself in the beautiful square on the lake, the facade of the Church of San Giovanni behind you and, in front of you, the small harbour and the pier.
San Giovanni is a village within the village, a corner where life flows a little more quietly than in the renowned streets of Bellagio and where you can see a retired couple sitting and reading on deckchairs lying in the square, screaming kids throwing themselves into the water from the walls and groups of people on benches in the shade.
Now for the three gems of this village: the Ittiturismo da Mella, Nenè Food (both listed on Trip Advisor) and the house of bicycles!
Let's go in order.
1 ITTITURISMO DA MELLA Here the fish are the ones just caught by Alessandro Sala, the last professional fisherman left in Bellagio. The restaurant is also a fish shop and if you are interested in going out fishing with him, you are welcome.
2 NENÉ FOOD A little coffee, a little bistro, but also the right place for an aperitif.
3 THE HOUSE OF FLYING BIKES What is it about? A house "decorated" with vintage bicycles placed there by the owner Ivan, a carpenter with a passion for bikes and with space problems. Having no more place to keep them, he has seen fit to hang them on the walls. There is the bicycle of the firefighters, that of the Post Office and that of the Milan sweepers. Ivan collects bikes, repairs them and puts them on display. And in doing so he created an open-air museum … in the true sense of the word!
In short, San Giovanni is all this and much more. I hope you will like it as much as I did!
翻译:Bellagio 有点隐蔽的一面是 San Giovanni 的小村庄。距离Bellagio市中心仅15分钟步行路程(也可乘船抵达),但很多游客并不知道。
圣乔瓦尼只是一个小村庄,但值得付出努力。
它有一座美丽的 18 世纪教堂(实际上是献给圣乔瓦尼的),有自己的码头,错落有致的街道上有特色的房屋,一栋靠另一栋,还有餐馆和酒店。
但美妙之处在于,正如经常发生的那样,即使是到达那里的道路本身也会不断出现惊喜。
在去圣乔瓦尼的路上
当然,您可以沿着主路行驶,从 Bellagio 的游船码头向右行驶。
但我的建议是步行穿过梅尔齐别墅的花园,那里总是风景优美!门票(每位 12 岁以下成年儿童 8 欧元免费)将允许您进入公园,参观公园,从对面出口,到达圣乔瓦尼小村庄,返回时,再次返回并沿着大道原路返回。这样您将避开一段不太舒适的路段。
在花园外,您会发现自己身处 Loppia 小村庄,这是 Bellagio 的另一个迷人角落。在这里,您一定会注意到停靠在码头水域中的雄伟船只。它是罗西纳 (Rosina),建于 1903 年,是科莫湖 (Lake Como) 上最后一座仍在运行的缆车,现在只在特殊场合才会公开出现,例如科马西纳 (Comacina) 岛上的圣乔瓦尼 (Sagra di San Giovanni)。直到 2016 年,这艘美丽的船都习惯于看到她与比她年轻约 20 岁的“几乎是双胞胎”的“Giulia”配对,现在在 Pianello 的 Museo della Barca Lariana 退休。
它看起来像是从一张旧照片或上个世纪初的众多画作中脱颖而出,让您回想起湖上满载货物、人和动物的船只熙熙攘攘的时代。
然而,说到更实际的事情,他们说在洛皮亚,您可以在位于圣玛丽亚教堂旁边楼梯顶部的(米其林)Alle Darsene di Loppia e Da Silvio 餐厅吃得很好。
说到教堂,它的历史可以追溯到十一世纪,建在私人财产上,无法参观,但仍然很高兴看到它坐落在山顶上,美丽的钟楼高耸入云天空。
不幸的是,到达 San Giovanni di Bellagio 的最后一段需要沿路行驶约 100 米,然后向右下行,在公共花园后立即开始发现村庄。
SAN GIOVANNI DI BELLAGIO 村
与村庄所有最具历史意义的地方一样,最好的办法是漫步在小巷中,欣赏古老的门、装饰有花盆的窗户和彩色外墙。
您会发现自己置身于美丽的湖边广场,身后是圣乔瓦尼教堂的正面,前方是小港口和码头。
San Giovanni 是一个村中村,在这个角落里,生活比著名的 Bellagio 街道更安静,在那里你可以看到一对退休夫妇坐在广场的躺椅上看书,孩子们尖叫着跳入水中从墙壁和阴凉处长椅上的人群。
现在介绍这个村庄的三颗宝石:Ittiturismo da Mella、Nenè Food(都列在 Trip Advisor 上)和自行车之家!
我们按顺序走吧。
1 ITTITURISMO DA MELLA 这里的鱼是亚历山德罗·萨拉 (Alessandro Sala) 刚刚捕获的鱼,他是留在贝拉吉奥 (Bellagio) 的最后一位职业渔民。餐厅也是一家鱼店,如果你有兴趣和他一起出去钓鱼,欢迎你。
2 NENÉ FOOD 一点咖啡,一点小酒馆,也是享用开胃酒的好地方。
3 飞行自行车之家 它讲的是什么?房子的主人伊万用老式自行车“装饰”了房子,伊万是一位对自行车充满热情但空间不足的木匠。由于没有更多地方存放它们,他认为适合将它们挂在墙上。有消防员的自行车、邮局的自行车和米兰清洁工的自行车。 Ivan 收集自行车,修理它们并展示它们。在这样做的过程中,他创建了一个露天博物馆……真正意义上的!
简而言之,圣乔瓦尼就是这一切,甚至更多。我希望你会像我一样喜欢它!