点评:ur day began at 5:30 am as we cautiously drove through the darkened dirt roads of the Curry Camp parking lot. As the early light of dawn began to illuminate the sky, our first sight was the massive granite wall towering over us. We snapped a quick picture I’m the dim light, locked the car, and began following a small group of hikers setting out in the same adventure as us. We were given advice to park as close to the Mist Trail trailhead as possible, but we quickly realized that we were further from the start of the trailhead than we thought. This costly mistake added a total of 2 miles to the already 16-mile grueling hike.
Once we hit the trailhead, we began a peaceful yet steep climb along a paved path. We were feeling good and paused a few times to take pictures along the way. Then, we hit the steps leading up to Vernal Falls. This is the last place to fill up water unless you have a filtration system, so drink sparingly and plan well. We continued up the Mist trail, and to describe it like the ascent to Mordor would be accurate, except you are drenched from the “mist” coming from the massively powerful waterfall you’re walking alongside. Bring a raincoat or expect to get wet like you’re in the splash zone of the Shamu show at Sea World. The climb is steep and can be slippery due to water cascading off the granite rocks you’re climbing up, but it was still early, and we made our way to the top with smiles on our faces.
We stopped at Nevada Falls to eat first lunch (at 8:30am) and use the last “real” bathroom. We thought they were crazy but later understood their logic. We also changed our socks so as not to continue the hike with wet feet. Here, we met the first group descending from the trek to Half Dome telling us they began at 10 pm the night before!
We eventually made it to Little Yosemite Valley which was the “easy” part of the hike, except for the incredible heat and beach-like sand we walked through. This is the only flat part of the hike, so enjoy it while it lasts! After leaving the Valley, we continued a gradual uphill climb through the woods past the Merced River and eventually saw a sign that indicated Half Dome was 2 miles away. I couldn’t believe we still had that far to go, but it seemed close enough. I mean, it’s only 2 more miles, right?! As we approached the sub-dome, we realized that the 2-mile marker only got us to the base of Half Dome.
The most grueling part of the hike was in front of us up precarious stone “steps” carved out of the granite. We decided to refuel with a second lunch before making the ascent, and it’s a good thing we did because it would be another 2.5 hours before we made it back down! Halfway up the sub-dome, the steps disappeared, and we veered right up the side of the rock. Pay attention because this rock scramble can be tricky. It was at this juncture that fear took over one of our hiking buddies, and she decided to wait for us in the shade under one of the only small trees on the entire rock face.
We continued a rather easy climb (considering what we just did) and made it to the base of the cables, where we took a moment to regroup and snag a pair of gloves from a hiker coming down. Don’t attempt the cables without the right kind of boots and gloves. The climb is already dangerous enough. My friend had fingerless cycling gloves, which wouldn’t cut it. Get neoprene gloves that fit well and have a good grip because you will need them to pull yourself up on the cables going up and slide your hands down on the descent.
Climbing the cables was taxing but not impossible. It was hard work as we pulled ourselves up using mostly our arms, pushing with our legs, and using our core. If you made it this far, you’re probably able to physically do it but don’t risk your life or others’ lives if you’re questioning your abilities. And remember, you have to go down the same way you went up. If lots of people of heading down as you’re going up, it can get scary. Take your time and move from one wooden plank to the next, as these give you some rest between poles. Try not to think about why some planks are missing and what would happen if one of those rickety poles came out of the rock. You might be tempted to take in the view while you wait for the person in front of you on the cables. Don’t. There will be plenty of time to gaze at the beauty around you from the top and looking down or around can be disorienting. Just take one step at a time and focus on making it the next plank. Once you do that for (what seems like) the hundredth time, you will have arrived at the top!
Catch your breath as you walk to the top of the rock face. The view is spectacular! Take pictures, sit quietly, and consider how far you’ve come for this moment! Note: arriving at the hottest time of the day really puts a damper on this moment, so pace yourself and leave as early as possible so you can enjoy the view at the top. This is when we realized those 10 pm hikers had it right!
Suddenly, the thought occurred to me that we were only halfway done, and I wondered if there was a shorter route back. There’s not. Air evacuation is the only way you leave a different way than you came. We rehydrated, grabbed a snack, and prepared for the long way down. The descent down the cables was much easier than going up. With the right gloves, it was easy to slide my hands down quickly. We got stuck behind a group clipping in and that made it a bit slower. We picked up our hiking buddy under the same tree we left her under 2 hours before and began climbing back down the sub dome. It was brutal. It was hot. My knees were shot (even with my trekking poles) and I kept wondering how I would do this for 8 more miles. We were low on water but managed to make it to the Merced River, where a fellow hiker generously filled up our water bottle with his filter. I think he felt bad for us poor, waterless souls. We made it through the hot, sandy Little Yosemite Valley and descended the precarious gravelly rocks. At this point, I was not taking pictures or taking in the view as I was simply trying to survive. Though a little longer, we chose to take the John Muir trail back as we thought it would be less taxing on our knees than the granite steps of the Mist Trail we took going up. However, it was not as easy as we had hoped, and around this time, my mental game began to crack. I was tired, thirsty, hungry, and incredibly sore. The Muir Trail felt like it went up before it went back down, and after the tenth switchback, I wondered if we were heading in the right direction. Just when I thought all hope was lost, we saw what seemed to be the most beautiful fairy house in the distance, with its lights glowing in the dusk. We had arrived at the bathrooms and water fountain!! We made it…almost. We were greeted by happy hikers who had just encountered a bear and who were descending after their 4-mile hike to Vernal Falls. They couldn’t believe we had hiked to Half Dome (and I couldn’t either), but I was so tired I could only answer their excited questions with low grunts and spurts of laugh-cries.
My hiking buddies agreed to go ahead and hike the additional mile to the car, so I trekked down the paved path in the dark at a jog-walk pace. I was exhausted and could only think about taking my boots off and propping my feet up! Finding the car proved to be a bit more challenging than we anticipated, and my friends had to double back once or twice in the dark before finding it and picking me up at the shuttle stop. It was at that point that we all tiredly cheered for what we had accomplished that day. This is truly an experience I will be talking about for the rest of my life!
翻译:早上 5:30,我们小心翼翼地开车穿过 Curry Camp 停车场漆黑的土路,开始了这一天。当黎明的曙光开始照亮天空时,我们首先看到的是高耸入云的巨大花岗岩墙。我们在昏暗的灯光下快速拍了一张照片,锁上了车,开始跟随一小群与我们一起踏上冒险之旅的徒步旅行者。我们被建议尽可能靠近 Mist Trail 步道起点停车,但我们很快意识到我们离步道起点比我们想象的要远。这个代价高昂的错误使原本已经 16 英里的艰苦徒步旅行增加了 2 英里。
到达步道起点后,我们开始沿着铺好的小路进行平静而陡峭的攀登。我们感觉很好,沿途停下来拍了几次照片。然后,我们走到通往 Vernal Falls 的台阶上。除非您有过滤系统,否则这是最后可以补充水的地方,所以请节制饮水并做好计划。我们继续沿着迷雾小径前行,把它描述成攀登魔多是准确的,只不过你被你旁边那座气势磅礴的瀑布喷出的“迷雾”淋湿了。带上雨衣,否则你会像在海洋世界的 Shamu 表演的溅水区一样被淋湿。这段路很陡,而且由于你爬上的花岗岩上会流下瀑布水,所以可能会很滑,但时间还早,我们面带微笑地爬到了山顶。
我们在内华达瀑布停下来吃第一顿午餐(早上 8:30),并使用了最后一个“真正的”浴室。我们以为他们疯了,但后来明白了他们的逻辑。我们还换了袜子,以免脚湿了继续徒步旅行。在这里,我们遇到了第一组从半圆顶徒步旅行下来的人,他们告诉我们他们是前一天晚上 10 点开始的!
我们最终到达了小约塞米蒂山谷,这是徒步旅行的“轻松”部分,除了我们走过的令人难以置信的炎热和海滩般的沙子。这是徒步旅行中唯一平坦的部分,所以尽情享受吧!离开山谷后,我们继续慢慢爬上山坡,穿过默塞德河边的树林,最后看到一个路标,上面写着半圆顶在 2 英里之外。我简直不敢相信我们还有那么远的路要走,但感觉已经够近了。我的意思是,只有 2 英里了,对吧?!当我们接近次圆顶时,我们意识到 2 英里的标记只能带我们到达半圆顶的底部。
徒步旅行最艰苦的部分就在我们面前,沿着花岗岩上雕刻的危险的石阶向上走。我们决定在攀登之前吃第二顿午餐补充能量,这是件好事,因为我们还需要 2.5 小时才能下山!爬到半圆顶时,台阶消失了,我们转向岩石的右侧。注意,因为攀爬岩石可能很棘手。就在这时,我们的一位徒步旅行伙伴感到恐惧,她决定在整个岩石表面仅有的一棵小树的树荫下等我们。
我们继续相当轻松地攀爬(考虑到我们刚才所做的一切),到达了缆绳的底部,我们花了一点时间重新集合,从一个下来的徒步旅行者那里拿了一副手套。如果没有合适的靴子和手套,不要尝试攀爬缆绳。攀爬已经够危险了。我的朋友戴了无指骑行手套,但不够安全。戴上合身且抓地力好的氯丁橡胶手套,因为你需要它们来拉起自己爬上缆绳,并在下山时将手滑下。
攀爬缆绳很费力,但并非不可能。这很辛苦,因为我们主要用手臂、腿部发力和核心肌群将自己拉上来。如果你能做到这一步,你可能身体上可以做到,但如果你怀疑自己的能力,就不要拿自己或他人的生命冒险。记住,你必须按照上山的路走下去。如果在你上山的时候有很多人一起下山,可能会很可怕。慢慢来,从一块木板移到另一块木板,因为这样你可以在两根杆子之间休息一下。尽量不要去想为什么有些木板不见了,如果其中一根摇摇晃晃的杆子从岩石中掉出来会发生什么。在等待前面的人爬上缆绳时,你可能会忍不住欣赏风景。不要这么做。从山顶上看周围的美景会很充足,往下看或环顾四周可能会让人迷失方向。只需一步一步地走,专注于爬下一块木板。一旦你这样做了(似乎)第一百次,你就到达了山顶!
当你走到岩壁顶部时,屏住呼吸。景色太壮观了!拍照,静静地坐着,想想你为了这一刻走了多远!注意:在一天中最热的时候到达确实会给这一刻带来不利影响,所以要控制好节奏,尽早出发,这样你就可以欣赏山顶的景色了。这时我们意识到那些晚上 10 点徒步旅行的人是对的!
突然,我突然想到我们只走了一半,我想知道回去的路是否更短。没有。空中撤离是唯一一种离开和来时不同的方式。我们补充了水分,吃了点零食,为漫长的下山路做准备。从电缆上下来比上山容易得多。戴上合适的手套,我的手很容易快速滑下。我们被困在一群人后面,这让我们的速度慢了一点。我们在 2 小时前离开她的那棵树下接上了我们的徒步旅行伙伴,然后开始沿着次圆顶往回爬。这太残酷了。天气很热。我的膝盖都快被打了(即使有登山杖)我一直在想我该怎么再坚持 8 英里。我们的水快用完了,但还是设法到达了默塞德河,在那里,一位徒步旅行者慷慨地用他的过滤器给我们的水瓶灌满了水。我想他为我们这些可怜的、缺水的人感到难过。我们穿过炎热、多沙的约塞米蒂小山谷,走下危险的砾石岩石。此时,我没有拍照或欣赏风景,因为我只是在努力活下去。虽然路程稍长一些,但我们选择走约翰·缪尔小径返回,因为我们认为这条小径对我们的膝盖的负担比我们上山时走的雾径花岗岩台阶要小。然而,这条小径并不像我们希望的那么容易,大约在这个时候,我的心理开始崩溃。我又累又渴又饿,而且浑身酸痛。缪尔小径感觉像是先上山后下山,在第十次转弯后,我开始怀疑我们是否走对了方向。就在我以为一切都绝望的时候,我们看到远处似乎是最美丽的仙女屋,它的灯光在黄昏中闪闪发光。我们到达了浴室和喷泉!!我们成功了……差一点。我们受到了一群快乐的徒步旅行者的欢迎,他们刚刚遇到了一只熊,在徒步 4 英里到达 Vernal Falls 后下山。他们不敢相信我们已经徒步到了 Half Dome(我也不敢相信),但我太累了,只能用低沉的咕哝声和一阵阵笑声回答他们兴奋的问题。
我的徒步旅行伙伴同意继续徒步一英里到汽车那里,所以我在黑暗中以慢跑的速度沿着铺好的小路跋涉。我筋疲力尽,只想着脱下靴子,把脚抬起来!找到汽车比我们预想的要困难一些,我的朋友们不得不在黑暗中绕回来一两次,才找到它并在班车站接我。就在那时,我们都疲惫地为当天的成就欢呼。这确实是一次我将终生谈论的经历!