点评:Hassan, from Amazing Toubkal Trek, responded immediately to an enquiry earlier in the year when we were looking at options for trekking. Not only was he prompt and able to answer questions re altitude, clothes, food etc but was very willing to adjust advertised itineraries according to our needs; all at a competitive and very reasonable price. In addition to going up Toubkal, we also wanted to visit some of the Amazigh villages and valleys.
In the end we chose to do the 6 day Atlas trek, with Hassan the guide, two muleteers/cooks Mustafa and Mohammed. The mules carried our backpacks and Mustafa and Mohammed prepared great food for the trek (eggs, bread and fruit for breakfast; salads, pasta and fish for lunch; soups, tajines, couscous and chicken for dinner - plenty of delicious food for all of us. No chance of going hungry) as well as ready smiles and always up for a laugh.
Hassan met us where we were staying in Marrakech on the morning of the first day and we drove down to Imi Oughlad (around 90 mins) where the trek started. Initially hot and steep, once we were over the initial hill the going became easier and we were off. The first night we stayed in a large room at a family house in Tinzert. As the only visitors in the village it was a privilege to sit out to watch the sun set and stars appear with local families before evening prayer (even though communication was mainly through smiles as our Amazigh is limited to thank you - tanemmirt).
Day 2 was a climb over a pass and then down into the Azzaden Valley. Passing a major civil engineering dam building project led us eventually into the beautiful orchards and river that slowly took us up to improbably steep village of Tizi Oussem. The Azzaden Valley is beautiful and it felt as if we were the only visitors passing through village life; with enthusiastic welcomes from schoolchildren and friendly waves from adults going about their daily business.
Day 3 was a steep but wonderful climb out of Tizi Oussem and then up to a pass at 2,500m before descending into Aroumd. Stunning views all round as the mist cleared in the valleys; the only sound bleating goats. The guesthouse in Aroumd was beautiful with a view of the river, valley orchards and Toubkal itself out of the bedroom window (see pic).
Day 4 was a long slog up to the Toubkal Refuge (from 1800m to 3200m), past the shrine at Sidi Chamharouch. We were now accompanied by groups of hikers all on their way up to Toubkal, stopping at the various places to buy drinks and snacks on the way up. The refuge is crowded and excited (mainly Spanish and French, but visitors from all over) as almost all will be attempting to go up Toubkal the following morning. About 20 people were in each dormitory room; one snores we all snore.
Day 5 - up at 3.30 to get ready for the ascent. Trudging up in the dark, following the line of headtorches in the snow (crampons were necessary and rented for a small fee from Aroumd - organised by Hassan), and out of breath was a challenge and quite a few people out of the 200+ who started, turned back to the refuge. As the sun rose, the summit was always just round the corner until eventually there it was. Clear and beautiful views across the Atlas were the reward as well as elation at reaching the top (although altitude might have contributed to this happy giddiness - 4,200m is high). Colder than the valleys, but with no wind and a cloudless sky still warm once the sun came up. We were told that if there is wind, it can be extremely cold.
After celebrations and photos, we tumbled down the mountain and after something to eat at the refuge on down to Aroumd. A long day, but exhilerating.
The final day was a relaxed walk, farewells to Hassan, Mustafa and Mohammed before transferring back to Marrakech.
Overall, this trek was (as advertised) amazing. The valleys and mountains are beautiful and varied; for the first few days we did not come across any other visitors; accommodation and food were excellent; going up to 3,200m from 1,800m and then from 3,200m up to 4,200m summit and then down to 1,800m is a challenge. It does require some fitness and determination, but people of all ages were able to do it at their own pace. Worth trying to go up Toubkal - a memorable challenge. However, trekking along valleys, over passes and into Amazigh villages would definitely be worth doing as a beautiful adventure in its own right. This is certainly a wonderful part of the world and we can only recommend visiting for as many days as possible. You will enjoy the mountains, valleys and people.
Top tips: drink water; good walking shoes; wear layers and head cover for the sun; drink water. Enjoy the mountains!
Hassan, our guide, was attentive, kind and seemed to enjoy our company - he made sure that we had what we needed, were ok with the altitude and pace, gave us space, while always happy to answer questions and join in the general nonsense (carrying 10kg rocks to the summit "because the rock wanted to go"; weight of mules - no you cannot carry a mule). Hassan is a star and we can recommend him and his team without reservation. Until the next Moroccan adventure... Tannemirt...
contact@amazing-toubkal-trek.com
www.amazing-toubkal-trek.com
翻译:今年早些时候,当我们正在寻找徒步旅行方案时,Amazing Toubkal Trek 的 Hassan 立刻回复了我们的咨询。他不仅回复迅速,能够解答我们关于海拔、服装、食物等问题,还非常乐意根据我们的需求调整宣传的行程;而且价格也很有竞争力,非常合理。除了攀登图卜卡勒峰,我们还想参观一些柏柏尔人的村庄和山谷。
最终,我们选择了为期六天的阿特拉斯山脉徒步旅行,Hassan 担任向导,Mustafa 和 Mohammed 担任两位骡夫兼厨师。骡子驮着我们的背包,Mustafa 和 Mohammed 为徒步旅行准备了丰盛的食物(早餐有鸡蛋、面包和水果;午餐有沙拉、意大利面和鱼;晚餐有汤、塔吉锅、蒸粗麦粉和鸡肉——我们每个人都吃得很饱,绝对不会饿肚子),而且他们总是面带微笑,随时准备开怀大笑。
第一天早上,哈桑在我们住在马拉喀什的地方和我们会合,我们驱车前往伊米奥格拉德(Imi Oughlad)(大约90分钟),徒步之旅从这里开始。起初,山路炎热陡峭,翻过第一个山坡后,路途变得轻松起来,我们便出发了。第一晚,我们住在廷泽特(Tinzert)一户人家的大房间里。作为村里唯一的游客,能够在晚祷前与当地居民一起坐在户外欣赏日落星空,真是莫大的荣幸(尽管我们柏柏尔语的语言仅限于“谢谢”——tanemmirt)。
第二天,我们翻越了一座山口,然后下到阿扎登山谷(Azzaden Valley)。经过一个大型土木工程大坝建设项目后,我们最终进入了美丽的果园和河流,缓缓地上升到陡峭得不可思议的提齐奥塞姆(Tizi Oussem)村。阿扎登山谷风景秀丽,我们仿佛是唯一的游客,体验着村庄的日常生活;学生们热情地欢迎我们,成年人也友好地挥手致意,他们忙着各自的日常事务。
第三天,我们从 Tizi Oussem 出发,沿着陡峭但美妙的山路攀登,然后到达海拔 2500 米的山口,再下山进入 Aroumd。山谷中的薄雾散去,四周景色壮丽,只有山羊咩咩的叫声。Aroumd 的宾馆非常漂亮,从卧室窗户望出去,可以看到河流、山谷果园和图卜卡勒峰本身(见图)。
第四天,我们长途跋涉,到达图卜卡勒保护区(海拔 1800 米至 3200 米),途经 Sidi Chamharouch 神殿。现在,我们和几组徒步者一起前往图卜卡勒峰,途中在各个地方停下来买饮料和零食。保护区里挤满了兴奋的人(主要是西班牙人和法国人,但也有来自世界各地的游客),因为几乎所有人都打算第二天早上攀登图卜卡勒峰。每个宿舍大约住 20 个人;一个人打呼噜,我们都打呼噜。
第五天 - 3:30起床,准备登顶。在黑暗中艰难跋涉,沿着雪地里的头灯(冰爪是必需的,可以在Hassan组织的Aroumd网站上花一点钱租到)的路线前进,上气不接下气,这对我们而言是一个挑战。出发的200多人中,有不少人折返了营地。随着太阳升起,山顶似乎就在眼前,直到最终抵达。清晰美丽的阿特拉斯山脉景色是我们的奖励,也是我们登顶后的兴奋之情(虽然海拔也可能是这种愉悦感的原因之一——4200米很高)。比山谷里冷,但没有风,万里无云的天空在太阳升起后仍然温暖。我们被告知,如果有风,天气会非常冷。
庆祝和拍照之后,我们摇摇晃晃地下了山,在营地吃了点东西后,继续下山前往Aroumd。漫长的一天,却令人兴奋不已。
最后一天是悠闲的徒步,与哈桑、穆斯塔法和穆罕默德告别后返回马拉喀什。
总而言之,这次徒步之旅(正如宣传的那样)精彩绝伦。山谷和山脉美丽而多样;最初几天,我们没有遇到任何其他游客;住宿和餐饮都很棒;从1800米爬升至3200米,再从3200米爬升至4200米的顶峰,最后再下降至1800米,这无疑是一项挑战。这确实需要一定的体能和毅力,但各个年龄段的人都能按照自己的节奏完成。值得一试的是攀登图卜卡勒峰——一次难忘的挑战。然而,沿着山谷、翻越山口、深入柏柏尔村庄的徒步之旅本身就是一种美妙的冒险,绝对值得一试。这里无疑是世界上一个奇妙的地方,我们强烈建议您尽可能多地游览几天。您将享受这里的山脉、山谷和当地居民的风情。
重要提示:多喝水;穿舒适的步行鞋;穿多层衣服,戴上遮阳帽;多喝水。享受山间乐趣!
我们的导游哈桑很细心、友善,似乎很享受我们的陪伴——他确保我们得到了所需的一切,适应了海拔和步调,给我们留出了空间,同时总是乐于回答问题,并参与一些日常的胡闹(比如扛着10公斤的石头上顶峰“因为石头想走”;骡子的重量——不,你不能扛着骡子)。Hassan 是一位明星,我们毫无保留地推荐他和他的团队。下次摩洛哥探险再见……Tannemirt……
contact@amazing-toubkal-trek.com
www.amazing-toubkal-trek.com